26/08/2026
No, dear reader, there are no brown tourist signs on the Faroe Islands. That’s not to say there are no museums of course (there’s about ten) but the roadsign pointing to them is not shaded in my beloved “tourist sign brown”. Given my obsession I naturally I felt mildly disappointed, but I didn’t mind too much, because as well as the brilliant Faroese institutions that have collected the fascinating history, stories and artworks of this most beguiling of island nations, really it was the bare, raw, seismic nature of these striking isles, their stark, jagged landscapes and treeless wild North Atlanticness, their totally enveloping, constant gentle sweeping fogs and fat cloud-patched skies that drew me here.
Given my aversion to flying I dragged my poor long suffering family with me on this 3,500 mile round trip, covering seven countries over land and wild, puke-inducing seas. For me travelling is my destination, I loved every slow day we spent journeying… my family however like a normal holiday, an easily gettable-to destination, and also would probably just prefer to be at home if anyone had actually asked where they’d like to spend their summer… tough times for them.
That said, not a human on earth could fail to love the Faroes. Our time on these islands was spent shooting through impossibly narrow tunnels hollowed out of towering hillsides, wandering hidden red, green and black painted villages, scaling vertiginous cliffs to watch puffins come in for wind buffeted and comedically splay-footed landings, watching the sunset over grass turfed churches, walking with dreadlocked woolly sheep, being on boats thrown violently around by the ever present waves of the Atlantic not matter what the weather and sitting quietly watching Faroese harbour life. The skies, seas, channels and fjords here are constantly changing, they merge in and out of each other and make you feel like you’re really truly in the landscape, like you’re being quietly daubed into a thickly applied oil seascape painting. It was completely magical.
Dolphins hooned around in the wake of our ship coming home and I got to watch Muckle Flugga lighthouse as we passed too ❤️