05/16/2024
Caring for Gravestones and Memorial Markers
A gravestone or memorial marker is meant to last so that a life can be remembered by future generations. But it isn’t unusual to come across a marker, regardless of its age, and find it illegible due to “dirt” or erosion. As time marches on, some erosion is inevitable, but what can be done to lengthen the life of the marker and what are the best ways to clean a dirty marker? And what about damaged markers?
The first thing to remember is that even if you hold the deed to that particular burial plot, you still need to get permission from the cemetery owner before you can do any cleaning or maintenance. If you don’t know who is in charge of the cemetery, call a funeral home that is in the vicinity, usually any within a 50-mile radius will have contact information. NEVER do any cleaning, restoration or “landscaping” without permission.
Once you have permission, you need the proper cleaning supplies. DO Not use any type of household cleaners. This includes soaps, bleach, vinegar, Windex, Fantastic, Simple Green, granite surface cleaner…. The only cleaning agent that the National Park Service (NPS is the caretaker of all Federal cemeteries such as Arlington) recommends using is D2 Biologic agent. Only 2 other products are considered “ok” but not great are Wet & Forget and Orvus Compound. D2 can be purchased at most local history rooms/museums as well as some hardware stores. It can also be purchased online directly from the company. Although it seems expensive, a small amount goes a very long way as it does get diluted before use. If you prefer not to use D2, most markers can be cleaned up with nothing more than plain water although they will need more frequent cleanings. When using D2, time between cleanings can be several years.
The tools used in cleaning also matter. Again, nothing harsh or abrasive such as wire brushes, power washers, metal scrapers… What tools should you use? A plastic or nylon pot scraper; soft bristled brushes- paint brushes, tooth brushes, soft bristled vegetable brushes; and wooden “tools” like popsicle sticks, tongue depressors, and tooth picks.
The final supplies are (1) WATER- Water is one of the key items for cleaning. Depending on the size of the stone, it can require several gallons of water if it is larger and extremely covered in debris. Even a small, relatively clean stone will probably take at least 1 gallon of water. You can use a hose if available, buckets or jugs of water, and spray bottles or large sprayers such as those used for lawns and gardens. Most experienced cleaners will use a combination of sprayers and buckets or jugs. When you get permission to do the cleaning it is suggested to ask if there is a reliable water source on site, otherwise you will need to bring water with you.
(2) Optional supplies include safety glasses, masks, gloves (regular Playtex type gloves work well), knee pads or a cushion for kneeling on, and a smock or other clothing protection. Those disposable rain ponchos work great. And don’t forget hats, sunscreen, drinking water, and snacks if you will be out doing several stones.
Steps to cleaning –
*Do not clean a stone that is unstable or cracked or broken. *
1-Use a larger paint brush to sweep away all loose debris
2-Soak the top portion of the stone with a liberal amount of water and let it soak for a few minutes. The portion that you are working on MUST remain wet. *Always use water that is at air temperature. Too hot or too cold of water can cause the stone to crack. Also do not clean if there is a chance of the temperature dropping below freezing before the stone it completely dry.
3-Use the scrapper to gently loosen and peel off any moss or lichen. Remember to keep rewetting the stone as needed.
4-After the larger debris is removed, again use plenty of water, use your brushes and wooden tools to remove other debris and clean out inscriptions and decorative items.
5-Now is the time to apply the D2 and gently scrub. Once again make sure the area you are working on is wet. It is easiest to work from the top of the stone down, doing a small area before moving on. Although the D2 does not need rinsed off, rinsing will flush away any remaining debris.
*Some sources recommend starting from the bottom to prevent streaking, don’t be afraid to experiment to see what works best for you.
As the D2 gradually absorbs into the stone over the following weeks it will continue to kill off any ingrained biological growth and the stone will continue to lighten and look sharper.
If possible, it’s recommended to learn by example from an experienced gravestone preservationist.
