05/27/2026
In 1949, when the Marston Company published this advertisement, millinery was enjoying a nostalgic revival.
After the austerity of World War II, designers often looked back to earlier decades, reinterpreting classic hat silhouettes for a modern postwar audience.
The three “old favorites” in the ad each draw on long-established styles, though all were softened and restyled by 1949.
The bonnet was a dominant form of women’s headwear throughout the 19th century. Unlike a hat that sits on top of the head, a bonnet frames the face and extends over the back and sides, often tying under the chin. The Victorian “poke bonnet” featured a deep brim that shielded the face and signaled modesty and status. By 1949, the bonnet had become lighter and more decorative, its structure reduced, chin ties largely gone, and replaced with floral trims that softly framed the face.
The cloche, named from the French word for “bell,” is closely associated with the 1920s flapper era. Originally popularized in the early 20th century, it was worn close to the head and often low on the brow, defining the Jazz Age silhouette alongside bobbed hairstyles. By the 1940s, as described in the ad as “staging a continued success,” the cloche was softened and made more flexible, sometimes paired with scarves or veils to ease its rigid shape.
The sailor hat, or boater, originated in 19th-century naval uniforms and became popular in women’s fashion by the 1880s. Its classic form—flat crown, straight circular brim, and ribbon band—came to represent the independent “New Woman” of the early 20th century. In 1949, the Marston version retained the basic silhouette but added dramatic quills and velvet, transforming a once-practical style into a more decorative fashion statement.
The ad also highlights two luxury materials. “Baku” is a fine, lightweight straw made from buri palm fibers, valued for its subtle silken sheen. “Milan” is a high-quality straw braid, originally from Italy, prized for being both durable and pliable, ideal for elegant hat construction.
